Woodworking: Inlaid Box for Cube

This is a project I've had in the back of my head for more than a year now. Every few months it'd resurface and I'd jot down some dimensions, look into materials, and inevitably get distracted by life. A week ago I had totally open weekend and decided that it was time. Unfortunately I didn't pause to take progress shots, but the vast majority of the techniques are the same as I used in the deckbox and land station. The corners are miter joints, the "floor" and lid are set into 1/8" deep rabbets all the way around, and the dividers simply slot into 1/8" deep dados on both sides.

Materials-wise, I stuck with maple for the frame, with bird's eye figure this time, ceder for the dividers, and baltic birch plywood for the lid and floor. The ceder was a lot softer than I anticipated, but I don't expect much wear on the dividers, and the smell is amazing. The inlay materials are cherry veneer, three colors of paua shell veneer, and five semi-precious stones (being pearl, blue onyx, onyx, carnelian, and malachite).

After sanding to 600 grit the maple and cherry got a coat of danish oil, producing a lovely warm and deep look, but I found in testing that the plywood looked miserable and blotchy with that approach. I ended up going with a few layers of spray varnish and a final sanding with 600 grit and ultra fine steel wool on the plywood, giving it a satin feel and slightly warming up the color without any of the blotching.

Laser cutting the lotus pieces (sorry for the vertical video, I know)

The veneers and lid-inset were all laser cut, requiring six different cutting patterns to get everything matched up and at the right burn-depth. Needless to say, some experimentation went into this process. An additional mini-project came out of this testing as well, which I'll post later on!

Dry fitting inlay
Dry fitting inlay
Dry fitting the shell veneer
Dry fitting the shell veneer

The veneers were attached with a thin later of Titebond I (I know there are better glues, even just TB III, but I didn't want to put off this project for another week) and clamped with wax paper for an hour. The same spray vanish and rub-out procedure was used on both sides of the lid, giving it a wonderful feel. Finally the stones were secured with a drop of cyanoacrylate super glue each.

Beautiful maple figure on the front
Beautiful maple figure on the front
Nice even rows, glue just dried!
Nice even rows, glue just dried!
A head-on shot of the final result
A head-on shot of the final result

While this project was only a marginal step up in complexity, I still learned a ton while working through it. While every small mistake and blemish that ended up in the final piece stand out a lot to me, I'm still really happy with the result!

Both cubes snugly in their new home
Both cubes snugly in their new home!

Dimir EDH Box with Nacre Inlay

It's been a while since I've put up an update, but I haven't been up to nothing. I found out that I have access to a beefy laser cutter through my work, and have been throwing various projects at it over the last few weeks. One of the first things I wanted to try was precision inlay and making a rudimentary deck box. My first target was my Lazaav EDH deck, and it provided a good opportunity to get my feet wet with both laser cutting, inlay, and wood staining. The material itself comes from an 1/4" thick oak project board. I had pondered putting on a few layers of shellac or other finish to smooth it out, but decided that I'd already learned what I'd wanted to, and kinda preferred the woodgrain look.

Showing off the inlay colors
Showing off the inlay colors
The lid fits, but not perfectly
The lid fits, but not perfectly
The ebony stain looks almost exactly like I wanted it to
The ebony stain looks almost exactly like I wanted it to
I didn't both to finish the interior on this one, a final version would definitely have a lining.
I didn't both to finish the interior on this one, a final version would definitely have a lining.

The pattern for the box itself was generated using MakerCase, but I think for later projects I'm going to opt for actually making the joints myself to ensure they fit. There seemed to be some inconsistencies with the laser kerf (similar to the saw-depth for conventional cuts) that prevented perfect mating, and I haven't dialed in the compensation for that.

Over all this served as a proof-of-method and tools for doing nacre inlay on later projects, and bonus points: it still works as a box.